Dodge Caravan, Chrysler Voyager, Chrysler Town & Country Repair Manual 2003-2007

The Dodge Caravan, Chrysler Voyager, Chrysler Town & Country Repair Manual 2003-2007 by Haynes, covers models indicated, powered by 2.4L 4-cylinder, 3.3L V6, and 3.8L V6 engines.

These minivans come available in either standard or long length bodies, and are equipped with sliding side doors (both sides) and a standard rear liftgate.

Note: this service manual DOES NOT include information specific to all-wheel drive or diesel engine models.

1. Relieve the system fuel pressure (see Section 2).
2. Disconnect the cable form the negative battery terminal (see Chapter 5, Section 1).
3. Remove the fuel tank (see Section 5).
4. Disconnect the fuel delivery line quick connect fitting from the fuel pump/fuel pressure regulator/fuel level sending unit assembly (see illustration).
5. Disconnect the electrical connector from the fuel pump/fuel pressure regulator/fuel level sending unit assembly.
6. Before removing the fuel pump/fuel pressure regulator/fuel level sending unit assembly, make an alignment mark on the mounting flange for the fuel pump/fuel pressure regulator/fuel level sending unit and on the fuel tank (see illustration). This mark ensures that the assembly will be correctly realigned when it's installed again.
7. Using a brass punch and hammer, loosen the locknut that secures the fuel pump/fuel pressure regulator/fuel level sending unit assembly (see illustration).
8. Carefully lift the fuel pump/fuel pressure regulator/fuel level sending unit assembly from the fuel tank (see illustration). Angle the module so that you don't bend the float arm of the fuel level sending unit or damage the fuel pump inlet strainer.
9. If you want to replace the fuel pressure regulator, see Section 9. If you want to replace the fuel pump or the fuel level sending unit, see Section 10.
10. While the pump is removed, inspect the pump inlet strainer. Make sure that it's not clogged or damaged. If the inlet strainer is dirty, try washing it in clean solvent. If it's still clogged, replace it.
11. Installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure to tighten the fuel pump module locknut securely.

Buy an automotive charging kit at an auto parts store ( see illustration). A charging kit includes a can of refrigerant, a tap valve and a short section of a hose that can be attached between the tap valve and the system low side service valve. CAUTION 1. Although the system will hold more than one can of refrigerant, don?t add more than one can (you could overfill the system). CAUTION 2. There are two types of refrigerant used in automotive system; R-12, which has been widely used on earlier models, and the more environmentally-friendly R-134a used in all models covered by this manual. These two refrigerants (and their appropriate refrigerant oil) are not compatible and must never be mixed or components will be damaged. Use only R-134a refrigerant in the models covered in this manual. Hook up the charging kit by following the manufacturer?s instruction. Warning: DO NOT hook the charging kit hose to the systme high side! The fittings are the charging kit are designed to fit only on the low side of the system.

Refer to illustrations 15.3 and 15.4 NOTE: The Idle Air Control motor is located on the throttle body.

1. Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery (see chapter 5, section 1).
2. Remove the throttle body (see chapter 4).
3. Remove the IAC motor mounting screw (see illustration) and detach the IAC motor from the throttle body.
4. If you?re going to reuse the same IAC motor, remove and discard the old O-rings from the IAC motor (see illustration).
5. Install new O-rings on the IAC motor.
6. Install the IAC motor and tighten the mounting screws securely.
7. Installation is otherwise the reverse of removal.

REPAIR OF DENTS

20. When repairing dents, the first job is to pull the dent out until the affected area is as close as possible to its original shape. There is no point in trying to restore the original shape completely as the metal in the damaged area will have stretched on impact and cannot be restored to its original contours. It is better to bring the level of the dent up to a point which is about 1/8-inch below the level of the surrounding metal. In cases where the dent is very shallow, it is not worth trying to pull it out at all.
21. If the back side of the dent is accessible, it can be hammered out gently from behind using a soft-face hammer. While doing this, hold a block of wood firmly against the opposite side of the metal to absorb the hammer blows and prevent the metal from being stretched.
22. If the dent is in a section of the body which has double layers, or some other factor makes it inaccessible from behind, a different technique is required. Drill several small holes through the metal inside the damaged area, particularly in the deeper sections. Screw long, self tapping screws into the holes just enough for them to get a good grip in the metal. Now the dent can be pulled out of pulling on the protruding heads of the screws with locking pliers.
23. The next stage of repair is the removal of paint from the damaged area and from an inch or so of the surrounding metal. This is easily done with a wire brush or sanding disk in a drill motor, although it can be done just as effectively by hand with sandpaper. To complete the preparation for filling, score the surface of the bare metal with a screwdriver or the tang of a file or drill small holes in the affected area. This will provide a good grip for the filler material. To complete the repair, see the Section on filling and painting.
REPAIR OF RUST HOLES OR GASHES
24. Remove all paint from the affected area and from an inch or so of the surrounding metal using a sanding disk or wire brush mounted in a drill motor. If these are not available, a few sheets of sandpaper will do the job just as effectively.
25. With the paint removed, you will be able to determine the severity of the corrosion and decide whether to replace the whole panel, if possible, or repair the affected area. New body panels are not as expensive as most people think and it is often quicker to install a new panel than to repair large areas of rust.